I'll admit, I didn't know anything about Charles Deméry before I googled him, but I knewknewknew this skirt was something cool when I spotted it amongst the contemporary ones.
Yes, vintage colors and prints stand out on their own, but also, as I've recently discovered, Souleiado has a very distinct brand. Aesthetic. Artistic voice.
His patterns originate from cotton woodblock prints that are the epitome of French Provincial. He's kind of like the Laura Ashley of France. (I'm now going into witness protection because the French just offered a reward for my head for saying that.) No, but you know what I mean. Cottage core pretty prints but with those red, yellow's, greens and blues of the French countryside.
His clothing is coveted. His fabric is collected. And the previous wearer of this skirt LOVED Charles Deméry.
It's handmade. So let's consider why.
This sweet girl— who maybe couldn't afford the store's dresses, COULD afford the fabric, so she made one herself.
OR...
It's a larger size so maybe they didn't have her size (the 1970's fashion industry was not as body positive as they are now) which probably made her feel all sorts of body shaming as she left empty-handed.
SO maybe her mother snuck back out, bought the 2 contrasting/complimentary fabrics (that's a Souleiado brand "thing") and sewed her this dress as a surprise.
Or her father. Or her sister. Or brother. Or grandmother!
Or maybe her best friend.
Pick your Hallmark hero.
To make sure the world knew this was CD Souleiado, the sewer cut out his name from where it was printed on the side of the fabric and stitched it to the front of the skirt BIG and BOLD. Not the back—the front. So every time our girl put the skirt on, she'd feel a sense of excitement and belonging and fitting in and being cool.
I like both stories because they involve someone wanting something they couldn't have the traditional way so they got creative and made it happen another way. And there was a pride in finishing this skirt. In holding it up after the last stitch was sewn and imagining what our CD fangirl would look like wearing it. And how happy she would be as she walked around town in this Souleiado skirt that was as amazing (if not MORE amazing) than any in any store.
I am now a Charles D fan. Are you?
Waist is elastic in back, pleated in front and has an interior and exterior button (like some wrap skirts). Bottom hem is 2" wide and contrasting fabric is sewn ONTO original background fabric. This is about 1 1/2 yards if someone was interested in reusing the fabric.
Lovely, deep pocket on the left side.
Measurements (in inches, taken flat, doubled when necessary)
Waist:
Relaxed 34
Stretched: 40
Hips: free
Length: 34
For reference, mannequins measures: 34, 25, 35.5
My measurements: 34, 27, 37
It's pinned on both of us.
Condition: Excellent Vintage Condition
Color: Blue, gold & red
Material: Cotton