This antique Edwardian

bodice dates to the early 1900s - it's an elegant creation and so nice

that it's not black like so much of the surviving clothing of this era seems to

be! The bodice is full over the bust, fitted and boned below in the pigeon

breasted Gibson Girl style typical of the era. Lace insets are used for the

rounded yoke and standup collar as well as below the bust. The dotted net used

for the bust, sleeves and back is tucked and gently pleated for texture and soft

fullness. Narrow bands of velvet define the waist area lace inset. Ruched and

knotted velvet is used to edge the lace yoke, and wider bands of ruched velvet

set off the waist. The high collar is edged in corded white finely

woven cotton

SIZE:

Measurements reflect the current altered bodice -

see Condition report. If you restored it by taking out the alteration, you'd

lose about 3" at the waist and bust and about 2" at the shoulders.

Measurements

Inches

Centimeters

Bust

40"

101. 5

Shoulders

16"

40. 5

Waist

25"

63. 5

Length

15. 5"

39. 5

Sleeve length

23"

58. 5

FABRIC/COLORS:

The inner

bodice is constructed from off white polished cotton with a total of 10 stays,

four radiating in a fan shape in front and six in back. The outer bodice is

primarily a substantial cotton net with woven-in oval dots, with guipire (I

think) lace insets and velvet trim. All of these elements are dark blue. There

are also middle layers - lightweight pale gray silk and very lightweight sheer

black gossamer silk - you can see the edge of these in one of the closeups.

TAGS:

A homemade tag sewn

inside has these words printed in ink "Belonged to Mrs. McQuaid. Worn about

1905".

CLOSURES:

The bodice

closes with 18 metal hooks & eyes down the back. There are three larger

hooks that the back bottom edge, most likely used to secure the bodice to the

undergarment or skirt.

CONDITION:

A former owner

enlarged this by adding a 3" strip of dark blue velvet down the full length of

the back - it's a little darker than the original velvet and reflects light

somewhat differently. They also added a vee-shaped insert to the inner lower

sleeve cuffs to make it easier to get hands in and out. The outer fabrics are

sturdy and generally intact - no issues noted with the velvet, only a few

isolated bridal breaks in the lace. I found a few holes in the dotted net, most

of them near seams and either subtle or repairable - see closeup of the largest,

which is at the bottom of the left sideseam where it is mostly covered by the

velvet waistband. There was originally a layer of sheer gossamer cream silk sewn

to the inside of the lace yoke - only remnants remain as seen in closeup, but

can be easily removed without affecting wearability. The middle layer of black

gossamer has deteriorated inside the sleeves and can be seen looking cloudy

through the net in some areas - see closeup. I see a single brown stain visible

on the white inner fabric on the upper left side of the chest - see closeup. The

inside of bodice has multiple pinpoint brownish spots, mostly near the upper

left - they feel like they're on the surface and do not show on the outside of

the garment. Underarms are lightly discolored inside, and there is a faint odor

if I get my nostrils really close.

This item is sold from a vintage boutique in Lane County, OR.