Buying jewelry secondhand is a great way to acquire some beautiful, rare pieces. However, with vintage shopping, you tend to make a gamble when it comes to jewelry: are you actually buying vintage, or is this jewelry actually antique? This is easily fixed when shopping from trusted vintage sellers, but you may have the need to appraise a piece of jewelry yourself one day.
Of course, antique and vintage jewelry have similarities—they both come from past decades and are often more unique, one-of-a-kind styles.
That being said, there are actually distinct differences between vintage and antique jewelry. The most notable difference being that the term antique refers to pieces that are from 100 years ago or more, where vintage pieces come from more recent history.
Antiques can certainly be worn but require more gentle care and upkeep. These pieces are often preserved as art or even artifacts rather than wearable fashion pieces. Vintage jewelry should also be taken care of (as should any piece of jewelry) but can be worn more casually since they are still relatively recent in the grand scheme of things.
Most vintage fans are casual jewelry connoisseurs and not appraisers. So, how exactly can you tell if your jewelry is considered antique or vintage without having to pay for the help of professionals? That is where we come in.
Keep reading to learn the best ways to decipher if your secondhand jewelry is vintage or if it is actually antique.
Identify the Style
Though jewelry styles can overlap, you can attempt to pinpoint your jewelry’s historical origins by considering its unique style.
Jewelry designs can be broken down into sections of history. For instance, Victorian jewelry is going to have a very distinct appearance. This difference is especially stark when compared to more modern jewelry that started popping up during the Jazz Age of the 1920s.
Victorian jewelry comes from the 1800s up until the early 1900s and would certainly qualify as antique. The style of jewelry from the Victorian era was very grand looking, with gemstones often set in claw-like metals around the gem. The look was dramatic and demanded to be noticed. This is a period that is unmistakable when you come across that style.
You can certainly accessorize with some antique Victorian pieces; just be sure to take delicate care of them. For instance, this Snake Brooch is from the late Victorian Era (the 1890s) and would be a great way to accessorize.
If you prefer vintage styles, look for something more retro, like a pair of dangle rose earrings from the ‘50s. This pair of earrings are cute and classy. These earrings are very reminiscent of the time period they originate from.
The best piece of advice we can give to identify antique versus vintage jewelry is to research the different periods of jewelry fashion and try to classify your accessory accordingly. You will notice a huge difference in the way accessories from the Art Deco period look compared to more recent mid-century jewelry.
Pay close attention to the style—it is very telling, and you will be well on your way to determining if your piece is antique or vintage.
Identify Certain Materials
Aside from the kinds of metals used and the style of the actual jewelry, a great indicator of your piece’s time frame are the additional materials used. Certain materials were more commonly used in jewelry during different time periods and often tell a lot about when that piece was produced.
Bakelite is a great indicator of a piece of jewelry’s timeline. It is a fire-resistant plastic that was invented in 1909. However, bakelite became very common in jewelry making between the ‘20s and ‘50s. Due to the decades of popularity, if you identify your piece as being made of bakelite, it is a safe assumption to classify it as vintage.
This bakelite hearts necklace is from the ’30s. If you did not know the date of origin, the bakelite would be a telling indicator of its vintage status.
Another material to keep your eye on is camphor glass. Camphor glass is an indicator of antique pieces since it was common in jewelry back in the 1800s up until the early 1900s. It is rare to find recent vintage jewelry with this material. If you can identify this in your accessories, it is likely an antique.
There is some overlap in materials, however. Foil opal or faux opal was first introduced in jewelry during the Victorian era, which would certainly make a piece of jewelry antique. But make sure to note that this material is still frequently used in jewelry. It can be found in more modern vintage pieces as well.
Brooches in the 70’s often used faux opal, so if you find this in your jewelry or brooch, there is a strong chance that it was made in the ‘70s or ‘80s, making it vintage. With the overlap of material use, it will not be as easily identifiable.
Keep common materials in mind while examining your jewelry--it is often telling of its antique or vintage status.
Jewelry Stamps
Our final piece of advice is to check the inside or back of your jewelry for any stamps or maker’s marks.
If your jewelry does not have any marks, which is sometimes the case, do not worry! You can use the other tips to better determine the status of your jewelry.
Suppose your accessories do indeed include any marks. In that case, this is a great way to actually pinpoint the exact date of manufacturing, which will give a conclusive answer to whether your piece is antique or vintage.
You may be wondering, what exactly is a maker’s mark? Maker's marks are the small symbols or initials imprinted into the jewelry as a way for the manufacturer to “sign” their work. If your jewelry has symbols or initials like that, all you need to do is try to identify the maker. Then, identifying the date of manufacturing should be easy.
If you have a vintage ring, all you need to do is check the inside of the band to find a mark.
Jewelry stamps and maker’s marks are an effective way to identify if your piece is antique or vintage, as well as a fun way to learn the history of your jewelry.
At-Home Appraisal
It can be tricky deciphering whether your jewelry is considered vintage or antique. The lines are fine, but with these tips, it can be done at home.
Look out for the style of jewelry, the materials used, and any maker’s marks on the inside of the piece. Using these tips will help you identify the general time frame of your jewelry’s manufacturing date, which will decide the vintage or antique status.
Following these tips will make you a successful at-home appraiser.
Sources:
A Guide to Early Victorian Romantic Period Jewelry | International Gem Society
How to Identify and Price Vintage Bakelite Jewelry | The Spruce Crafts
Jewelry Maker’s Mark | Antique Jewelry University
How Old Is an Antique? | The Spruce Crafts
1920-1929 | Fashion History Timeline | Fashion Institute of Technology